There are many steps in the natural dye process, some of which are more exciting than others yet all equally important. The first step is scouring which falls into the not so fun category but good scouring is essential. This post explains how to scour cellulose based fabrics such as cotton, hemp, and linen. Cellulose fibers contain waxes and pectins which must be removed prior to dyeing to facilitate a good dye to fiber bond. Proper scouring provides the most even and colorfast results. If you’re working with PFD (prepared for dye), or RFD (ready for dye) fabrics scouring is likely not necessary, but I do recommend washing them in the washing machine on a regular cycle. Before I explain the scouring process let’s talk fabrics.
I mainly work with GOTS certified organic cotton, organic linen, hemp, and hemp/organic cotton blends which I order from various sources. I encourage you to order samples before committing to purchasing yards of fabric so you can see and feel the different textures and weaves to determine which most inspire you. For quilting I typically work with fabrics that are in the range of 4.5-6 ounces per square yard. Tighter weaves like percale and sateen are more difficult to dye. High quality muslin is a better option.
Weigh Your FIber
As a first step you need to weigh the fabric or fiber you will be dyeing when it is dry. Dyers refer to this measurement as Weight of Fiber or more commonly as WOF and we measure in the unit of grams. Most digital kitchen scales and postage scales have the option to weigh in grams. Once you have weighed the fabric you are dyeing be sure to record it either in the selvedge of the fabric or in a notebook.
Scouring Supplies
washing soda
synthrapol
large pot
large spoon
Washing soda is also known as soda ash or sodium carbonate. Synthrapol is a mild PH neutral detergent and is great for scouring, and washing naturally dyed fabrics and quilts. Any mild natural liquid laundry detergent such as Ecos is fine to use if you don’t have Synthrapol. Both washing soda and Synthrapol can be purchased from natural dye suppliers. You’ll need a large pot for scouring and it’s absolutely important with ALL the natural dye processes that your dye pots and tools are separate from your kitchen pots and tools.
Recipe
1% Synthrapol or mild liquid detergent
2% soda ash
Hot Water
Fill a large pot with water and heat it up on the stove. Weigh out the Synthrapol and soda ash, add it to the pot and give it a good stir to dissolve the soda ash. Add the fabric and continue heating the water. Bring to a gentle boil and let it simmer for about an hour. The water will eventually turn brown as the waxes and pectins are released. After scouring let the water cool until it’s not dangerously hot to handle, then dump the dirty water out and fill your pot with clean water to rinse your fabric. Cold water is fine for rinsing. Hang to dry.
Adding the fabric to the pot for scouring.
The water after scouring is brown from all the pectin and waxes that were released.
Scoured fabric drying on the line.
In the next post I will explain how to mordant. Below I have listed the things you will need to order and have on hand for part 2.
SUPPLY LIST FOR PART 2
tannin
aluminum potassium sulfate or Aluminum Sulfate
Washing Soda
*iron (optional)
You can find all the ingredients in my shop here. There are many different tannins to choose from. If you’re wanting to achieve dark colors choose a darker tannin such as walnut. For lighter colors choose clear or yellow tannins like galls or myrobalan. Having a variety of tannins on hand is invaluable.
Iron (ferrous sulfate) can be used as a modifier to “sadden” dye colors. This is not required but provides an ability to create a broader range of colors.
If you have any questions please leave them in the comment section below. Happy scouring!
